10 Maintenance Tips for Spring!
- Check the out drive: On the Z drive there is a plug in the top cover of the gear box. It takes EP90 gear oil. If the oil appears white/milky then the oil seals are leaking and need replacing. If the oil is low then the gears will grate. If there is water in the oil then there is a chance that any parts above the oil line will rust as the oil is not under pressure. If you have trouble engaging forward or reverse gear, and the oil level is correct, then the probable cause is the gear change collar (under this cover) having slipped on the shaft. In neutral it should be dead centre. This may need need re-aligning and tightening (it is designed to slip along the shaft under strain). If this collar is ok and the gears still don't engage correctly then check the alignment of the external lever attached to this shaft - this could have slipped as well. This is sometimes caused by trying to engage gear when the engine is not running! To engage gear when not running rotate the prop by hand.
- Petrol Engines: Check for any evidence of petrol leaks around the carburetor and pipes.
- Cleaning the gel coat: Elbow grease, water and a non-toxic environmentally friendly cleaner. And yes it will get dirty again.... My boat lives under the Stansted flight path - you wouldn't believe what comes out of those engines.... a winter of Easyjet and the boat is black. Clean off bird droppings as soon as possible after landing! Droppings can be very acidic (fruit) and rot paint and plastic.
- Ropes: Real or nylon, they all get green. I soak mine in a bucket of bleach solution to kill the algae. Check the cleats are tight as this can cause leaks that will track through the screw holes, rot the wood, and appear at a different place inside as the water runs under the sides. If you re screw them use stainless screws and put silicone sealant lo modulus underneath. Bow and stern ropes need to be at least 8m - the length of the boat. (Unless you have the rare 22ft - then I want to hear from you!).
- Windows: The sliding ones have holes drilled in the lower gutter to let the water out. These can get clogged and will cause the water to leak inside and usually soak the cushions! The gutters also get clogged with debris.
- Batteries: Leisure batteries have thinner plates than car ones. Using a leisure battery to start an engine can cause damage to the plates - they buckle. If you want 2 batteries then make sure you have a relay that brings the leisure battery onto charge after the engine is started. Check all the electrical gear - horn, navigation lights, spotlight.
- Boat handling: I'm going to have a go at Mr Wintle's idea - putting ballast in the prow. I have trouble keeping my boat on the straight and narrow too... see the email page....
- Below the water: Well all sorts are going on down there! Recommended is every 3 years or so get it out the water - jet wash it down - check for osmosis signs (blisters) - check for any damage - check the sea cocks - give it a new protective gel coat. In shallow water the weeds will do a good cleaning job on the hull. Standing in one place for a long period attracts the algae build up. Clean the boat below the water line regularly. Clean the sink drain with a long wire handled spout brush - great home for spiders and bugs - leave the plug in!
- Check your gas: I have a gismo that fits on the bottle and tells you how much is left - it goes in line with the pipe. You could weigh it - or shake it - its liquid. There's space for 2 cylinders on most boats. Don't change the gas bottle while the engine is running. New Boat Safety regulationss mean that the fibre glass box originally on the boats is too thin. You can encase it in ply or fit a metal liner (1mm thick)
- Boat safety certificate: It's changing all the time! Make sure when it's coming up for time for renewal that your boat conforms. Details are on the www.boatsafetyscheme.com site. You can find a local examiner here too. You can't get a license without a current boat safety certificate and insurance. www.craftinsure.com will insure a Nauticus for around £100.
Check the spark plug gaps. Check the points. Check the fan belt.
Check the engine oil. 20/40 Multi grade is ok. Don't use the new synthetic oils.
If you drained the water for the winter (I do), then check the drain plug is tight - it's located at the right hand side of the engine block towards the stern above the sump. Check the water inlet sea cock is open. If fitted check the water filter (do this after every trip to avoid it going stagnant).
Best not to leave much petrol in the tank over a long period of time - it loses its octane. Lead replacement additive is still available. If you're having trouble getting it try Sainsbury's garages. You can get it direct from Castrol Oils UK at a price.
Now if you have diesel..... sigh... I wish...
Apologies if this to some is basic info .... Happy boating!
Top 10 Winter Tips!
If you are not going to be using your boat for the winter and it is staying on the water give some thought to these things...
- Remove the water from your petrol engine - the plug is to the right of the block just about the sump towards the back.
- Gas freezes as well so best to remove gas bottles.
- Drain the fresh water tank.
- Keep the petrol tank close to empty and then top up with fresh fuel when needed.
- Cover the boat with a tarpaulin - keep windows open underneath and put a milk crate on top of roof to allow ventilation.
- Check mooring ropes are not too tight. Water levels may change. rubber bungies can be added and then ropes can be kept slack. Place plastic tube around ropes places that will rub or chaff.
- Pack the engine compartment with bubble wrap or blankets to keep the warmth in.
- Clean the boat before covering. Clean the leg and grease it's surfaces.
- Make the boat light to keep the lower rubbing strake above the water level.
- Remove the cushions and linen and paperwork.
Prevention is better than cure! * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * *